Looking down the summit of Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world towering at an unbelievable height of 8848 meters, and pondering over the hardship faced enroute must be a privilege bestowed upon a selected few. Making history by summiting 14 of the world’s highest mountains over eight thousand meters by a Pakistani is a dream that has snatched the sleep of many veterans and aspiring climbers. Sirbaz Khan is one of them.
Sirbaz Khan, hailing from Aliabad, Hunza, made his lustrous career in climbing from a humble start as a kitchen assistant merely 8 years ago. His meager financial background pushed him to accept the seasonal job of a chef’s aide on climbing missions, trekking ventures, and hikes.
Pitching tents, laying mattresses, preparing food for clients, presenting food, and washing dishes in freezing cold at high altitudes was not the dream he was aspiring for. Sirbaz recollects his memories of his menial jobs… “I was always dreaming to be on the summits with the Green Flag flapping”, but those menial jobs paved the way to the summits of the highest and demanding peaks of the world” he admits humbly.
Sirbaz Khan is the first Pakistani to summit 11 of 14 eight thousand meters high peaks of the world including the highest mountain in the world Mount Everest (8848 meters), the second highest mountain in the world K-2 (8611meters), Nanga Parbat (8126 meters), Broad Peak (8163 meters), Gasherbrum II (8035 meters), Lhotse (8516meters), Annapurna (8091 meters), Manaslu (8163), Dhaulagiri (8176 meters), Makalu (8485 meters), and Kanchenjunga (8586 meters).
He is also the first Pakistani to summit Lhotse, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, and Kanchenjunga. He is also the first Pakistani to summit Makalu and Lhotse without supplementary oxygen, which according to the experts, is the ultimate climbing expertise.
He aims to summit Gasherbrum -I (8080 meters), Cho Oyu (8188 meters), and Shishapangma (8183 meters) in the future. It will make Sirbaz Khan the first Pakistani to summit all fourteen 8000ers in the world.
Such a lustrous career might render any person haughty, but it does not affect at all this unpretentious person who still finds his solace in the company of his aides, always remembers his mentors after each summit, and gratitude pours out of every word he utters after meeting his aides at the base camps. He remembers his mentors in these words. “The life of mountaineers has huge rewards and huge losses. If you don’t die soon, you see a lot of your friends leave you”.
He talks of mountains as living beings with which “to build a connection…to listen to it and learn from it.”
Sirbaz recounts the hardships of mountaineering with the passion that “there is so much that goes behind the victorious summit picture. So much that never comes to the surface. The journey remains protected with us and rightly so…for it is even more precious than the valuable destination.”
One may think mountaineers to be heartless tough guys, but Sirbaz’s narration, “…maybe another sleepless night that I have to pass counting hours and looking at the pictures of my loved ones…” depicts a compassionate and caring family man.
His philosophy of life is that life is no piece of cake, and so is mountaineering. In his words, “…climbing is no walk in the park. You have to give your absolute best and rightly so. Why else should you be able to do it? It is the same in life and it is the same on these high mountains, to get something extraordinary, you have to give something even bigger.”
Recounting the occasion, he was awarded the Pride of Pakistan, he recalls his journey from the beginning “… I believe that all of us are made for something and for me it was the mountains. In these last 18 years, I have worked as a low porter, as a kitchen boy, as a high-altitude porter, and as a lead climber. I have always given my best in each and every one of these roles and I believe that is why I am here today.”
Sirbaz’s message to aspiring climbers is never to think about rewards or awards, no need to run after success, just to explore what one is made for and give it their best. Hard work always pays off, never stop dreaming and be relentless in the pursuit. Success will follow.