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The Quest for14 Summits

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Looking down the summit of Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world towering at an unbelievable height of 8848 meters, and pondering over the hardship faced enroute must be a privilege bestowed upon a selected few. Making history by summiting 14 of the world’s highest mountains over eight thousand meters by a Pakistani is a dream that has snatched the sleep of many veterans and aspiring climbers. Sirbaz Khan is one of them.

Sirbaz Khan, hailing from Aliabad, Hunza, made his lustrous career in climbing from a humble start as a kitchen assistant merely 8 years ago. His meager financial background pushed him to accept the seasonal job of a chef’s aide on climbing missions, trekking ventures, and hikes. 

Pitching tents, laying mattresses, preparing food for clients, presenting food, and washing dishes in freezing cold at high altitudes was not the dream he was aspiring for. Sirbaz recollects his memories of his menial jobs… “I was always dreaming to be on the summits with the Green Flag flapping”, but those menial jobs paved the way to the summits of the highest and demanding peaks of the world” he admits humbly.

Sirbaz Khan is the first Pakistani to summit 11 of 14 eight thousand meters high peaks of the world including the highest mountain in the world Mount Everest (8848 meters), the second highest mountain in the world K-2 (8611meters), Nanga Parbat (8126 meters), Broad Peak (8163 meters), Gasherbrum II (8035 meters), Lhotse (8516meters), Annapurna (8091 meters), Manaslu (8163), Dhaulagiri (8176 meters), Makalu (8485 meters), and Kanchenjunga (8586 meters).

He is also the first Pakistani to summit Lhotse, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, and Kanchenjunga. He is also the first Pakistani to summit Makalu and Lhotse without supplementary oxygen, which according to the experts, is the ultimate climbing expertise.

He aims to summit Gasherbrum -I (8080 meters), Cho Oyu (8188 meters), and Shishapangma (8183 meters) in the future. It will make Sirbaz Khan the first Pakistani to summit all fourteen 8000ers in the world. 

Such a lustrous career might render any person haughty, but it does not affect at all this unpretentious person who still finds his solace in the company of his aides, always remembers his mentors after each summit, and gratitude pours out of every word he utters after meeting his aides at the base camps. He remembers his mentors in these words. “The life of mountaineers has huge rewards and huge losses. If you don’t die soon, you see a lot of your friends leave you”. 

He talks of mountains as living beings with which “to build a connection…to listen to it and learn from it.”  

Sirbaz recounts the hardships of mountaineering with the passion that “there is so much that goes behind the victorious summit picture. So much that never comes to the surface. The journey remains protected with us and rightly so…for it is even more precious than the valuable destination.”  

One may think mountaineers to be heartless tough guys, but Sirbaz’s narration, “…maybe another sleepless night that I have to pass counting hours and looking at the pictures of my loved ones…” depicts a compassionate and caring family man. 

His philosophy of life is that life is no piece of cake, and so is mountaineering. In his words, “…climbing is no walk in the park. You have to give your absolute best and rightly so. Why else should you be able to do it? It is the same in life and it is the same on these high mountains, to get something extraordinary, you have to give something even bigger.

Recounting the occasion, he was awarded the Pride of Pakistan, he recalls his journey from the beginning “… I believe that all of us are made for something and for me it was the mountains. In these last 18 years, I have worked as a low porter, as a kitchen boy, as a high-altitude porter, and as a lead climber. I have always given my best in each and every one of these roles and I believe that is why I am here today.”

Sirbaz’s message to aspiring climbers is never to think about rewards or awards, no need to run after success, just to explore what one is made for and give it their best. Hard work always pays off, never stop dreaming and be relentless in the pursuit.  Success will follow.

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Sports

Muhammad Azeem Khan: Pakistan’s Number One Amateur Featherweight MMA Fighter

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From the rugged mountains of Chilas, Gilgit-Baltistan, to the bright lights of Pakistan’s MMA cages, Muhammad Azeem Khan has carved his name into the sport’s history. At just 21 years old, Azeem has become the first fighter from the Diamer district to rise through the amateur ranks and earn recognition as the #1 featherweight amateur MMA fighter in Pakistan.

A Trailblazer from Diamer

Diamer, known more for its scenic landscapes and ancient rock carvings than combat sports, has never before produced a national-level MMA athlete. Azeem’s journey from this remote district to the top of Pakistan’s amateur featherweight scene is nothing short of groundbreaking. He not only represents himself but also carries the pride of Gilgit-Baltistan, inspiring a new generation of athletes who never thought global combat sports could be within their reach.

The Climb to the Top

Competing under the nickname “Killswitch,” Azeem has built an impressive amateur record. His relentless pressure, striking precision, and grappling control have made him a force inside the cage. His victories have steadily pushed him up the ranks, earning him national recognition and regional respect.

According to Tapology, Azeem now sits as the #1 ranked amateur featherweight in Pakistan, while also securing a spot in the top 10 of South Asia. For a fighter coming out of a region without big gyms, elite training camps, or widespread MMA infrastructure, his climb is a testament to raw talent, determination, and grit.

More Than Just Fighting

Azeem’s rise isn’t only about his personal career — it’s about opening doors. By breaking through at the national level, he is paving the way for athletes from Gilgit-Baltistan and other underrepresented areas of Pakistan to see MMA as a viable path. His story is one of breaking barriers, proving that champions can come from anywhere if the willpower is strong enough.

What’s Next

Still early in his career, Azeem has his eyes set on further dominating the amateur scene before transitioning into professional MMA. If his current trajectory continues, Pakistan could soon see its first internationally recognized featherweight contender from Diamer.

For now, Muhammad Azeem Khan remains a symbol of resilience, ambition, and regional pride — the number one amateur featherweight fighter in Pakistan, and the first to ever bring the name of Diamer District into the MMA spotlight.

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Arts, Culture & Heritage

Gilgit-Baltistan Jashan Azadi Polo Festival 2024 Concludes with NLI Victory

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Gilgit Baltistan Polo

Jashan Azadi Polo Festival Concludes with NLI Victory. A total of 15 teams participated in the Jashan Azadi Polo Festival, while teams from Chitral also participated for the first time. The NLI polo team defeated the Gilgit-Baltistan Scouts Polo Team in the final, scoring 4 goals to 3. Both teams had advanced to the final round by competing against various other polo teams. The match was a thrilling contest.

The match played at the Wahab Shaheed Polo Ground was watched and enjoyed by a large number of fans, a spectacular fireworks display was also performed at the end of the match.

A large number of fans from all districts of Gilgit-Baltistan, including Chitral, and from both domestic and foreign tourists, gathered at Wahab Shaheed Polo Ground to watch the final match. However, due to overcrowding, thousands were unable to enter. Some fans resorted to watching the match from the rooftops of nearby structures.

Chief Minister Gilgit-Baltistan Haji Gulbar Khan attended the final match of Jashan Azadi Polo Festival at Wahab Shaheed Polo Ground as a special guest. On this occasion, he said that polo is the national sport of Gilgit-Baltistan and a part of our historical and cultural heritage. Concrete steps will be taken at the government level to make polo popular among the people and to promote long-standing traditions.

He expressed his appreciation for Chitral’s participation in the Jashan Azadi Polo Festival and commended Major General Kashif Khalil Force Commander Gilgit-Baltistan for successfully organizing the event. The Force Commander pledged to further enhance the Wahab Shaheed Polo Ground and expand the seating capacity to accommodate more spectators.

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KIU Corner

Celebrating the Beauty of Mountains: KIU’s Wall Climbing Competition on International Mountain Day

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The Karakoram International University (KIU) in Gilgit recently celebrated International Mountain Day with a one-day wall climbing competition, which was organised in partnership with EVK2CNR. The competition showcased KIU’s commitment to providing students with top-notch sports facilities, including a state-of-the-art climbing wall.

The competition was divided into four categories: Category 1 for students aged 6 to 12; Category 2 for students aged 12 to 19; Category 3 for those aged 20 and over; and Category 4 for women of all ages. 22 male and female students took part in the competition, and the following students emerged as winners:

In the female category, Nasimane won first place, Saima Zahra took second place, and Alina Ali took third place. In Category B, Muhammad Abbas Mehdi won first place, Arshad Hussain took second place, and Ali Abbas took third place. In Category D, Muhammad Sami Zaib won first place, Hussain Sami took second place, and Ali Mantaha took third place. In Category E, Muhammad Ali won first place, Rahim Uddin took second place, and Zeeshan Abbas took third place.

The winners were recognised with shields and certificates from the chief guest, Dr. Khalil Ahmed, Dean of Life Sciences at KIU, and other distinguished guests.

The wall climbing competition on International Mountain Day not only highlighted the university’s commitment to sports and fitness, but also the importance of mountain conservation and appreciation for the unique beauty of mountain regions. Mountains play a crucial role in the lives of communities, providing them with vital resources such as water, food, and medicine. They also have cultural, spiritual, and recreational value.

Participating in outdoor sports like climbing has numerous benefits for mental and physical health. It can reduce stress, improve cardiovascular health, increase muscle strength and endurance, and boost self-esteem. Encouraging young people to engage in outdoor sports and appreciate the beauty of mountain regions can also foster a sense of environmental responsibility and a commitment to preserving these fragile ecosystems for future generations.

KIU’s wall climbing competition on International Mountain Day was a thrilling celebration of the beauty and benefits of mountains, and a testament to the university’s commitment to sports and environmental responsibility.

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