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The Sucking Vines of Concrete in Gilgit

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It was indeed a blissful day when Farhan, one of my friends from Lahore, a programme producer at PTV, rang me up to inform me that he, with a company of twenty, was going to grace my place within a week or so. And they all landed within a week. They first planned to travel by air. All the way from Lahore, they all flew to Islamabad, and from there they had to fly to Gilgit. Yes, Gilgit! This is the point where my introduction must pop up. I am Basraa,  Ahmer Sohail Basraa, Programme Manager at Radio Pakistan Gilgit. Originally, I hail from Lahore. And the Farhan I am speaking of is the person upon whose beguiling and enticing I decided to get myself transferred from PBC Lahore to PBC Gilgit.

Aah! I still remember that sweating and sweltering August of 2016 when I was in Lahore, in my office, and was upbraiding suffocating close of the weather. The temperature had gone up to touch 50 Celsius, sufficient enough to let each and every one of the pores of humans’ body broil. Though the fan upon my head was rotating fast about its axis, the air produced by it was only adding more heat to the environment of the room. And while I started cursing the weather, Farhan, quite naively, suggested me to get transferred to Gilgit. Gilgit, a place about which I had only read in the books. A place where I have never intended moving to. A place, about which I had heard quite scary things from Farhan, who had been there for a couple of years. It was when he was programme producer at Radio Pakistan, before leaving radio for PTV for good. He left, hence I had to leave too. Nonetheless, before joining PTV, Farhan was in Radio and had spent couple of years in Gilgit. Those days, I was appointed in PBC Islamabad. Farhan was from Lahore, and so was I. From Lahore, there was no direct flight to Gilgit (the facility of direct flight has, however, been extended to Lahore airport very recently). Also, there was no Gilgit-bound bus service from Lahore. Quite understandably, it became my duty being in Islamabad, and being Farhan’s friend, to book a PIA or NATCO seat for his travel to Gilgit (NATCO is a public-sector bus service running between Gilgit and Islamabad). It was also my duty to get the tickets cancelled owing to the weather often gone hostile enough to suspend the road or aerial traffic. Therefore, I was the closest witness of the trials and tribulations Farhan had to pass through to reach Gilgit. That’s why, then and there, I dismissed the idea of my getting transferred to Gilgit. Farhan, being a never-to-surrender stubborn, without giving up, kept pressing me with every possible logic, the principal one being the unbearable heat of Lahore. “You will be having an opportunity to get back to Lahore if you could not to adjust there,” he finally said after having spent all the arguments to convince me on getting transferred to Gilgit.

At last, I was convinced. I lost. And when I landed in Gilgit, I was lost in the real sense. I was stunned by the beauty that Gilgit has: winding enigmatic roads, chocolaty mammoth mountains, clouds with crystal clear blue background, perspicuous starry nights, lush green meadows and pastures, singing springs, melancholic autumns, jade-green lakes, humming brooks, roaring waterfalls, magnificent glaciers, ice-clad cliffs, pearl-like cherries, aromatic and juicy figs, peaches, apples, pears, almonds, walnuts, and what not. And to crown it all, it’s pure-hearted people who touch the hearts of those who come here: soft-spoken, civilized, erudite, hospitable, cultured, loving, caring, and beautiful. It all was so captivating that a nature-lover, like myself, just got mesmerized and spellbound. The spell was so strong that I could not keep an eye on the calendar. Initially, I planned to stay here for two years, but now it has been four years. Seems as if I was born here. Seems as if it has been centuries since I have been breathing in this soothing and intoxicating atmosphere. Seems as if I will never be able to think of going anywhere else, let alone actually going.

All here is nature, or very close to nature, organic, pure, sacred and sanctimonious. The things have, however, started changing lately. The advent of technology in this millennia-old mountainous civilization has left strong traces of commercialism to its indigenous untainted culture. The knock of modernism has made people think of transforming their visible culture. Local dresses are giving way to Western outfits. The traditional way of building houses with naturally available materials like wood and stones is being replaced with concrete, cement, and iron. An unending commercial race has influenced the affluent people to erect multi-storey plazas and hotels for meeting the growing needs of local population and tourists. The making of these vertical mounds of concrete might be indispensable, but they are meddling with the natural outlook of the area. Mountains and forests are cut and removed to build shopping centers. Lakes and rivers are encroached to build hotels. These vertical as well as horizontal heaps of concrete are limiting the vintage points of the sightseeing. The newly-built hotels encircling and encroaching the enchanting Attabad Lake well serve as one of the specimens of the issue. Yet another example is of the view of Rakaposhi peak from Radio Pakistan. Just few years back it could be sighted from the lawn of Radio Pakistan, Jutial. But now, it cannot be seen owing to the construction of the plazas across the road. Besides, the wastes of these hotels are mostly drained to the adjacent natural waters causing their beauty and purity to be polluted.   

 

Such changes, as has been put earlier, might be the need of the hour to cater for an ever-increasing number of tourists every year, and to come up to the commercial wants of the local population. But these inevitable changes can well be, and must be managed and planned to protect the natural beauty of the land as it is the only source of stimulation and magnetism for tourists from all over the world. The concerned authorities are called upon to take notice and devise and design a roadmap for such constructions or the rapidly creeping vines of these structures will soon imbibe one of the most natural and beautiful landscapes of the world.    

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Arts, Culture & Heritage

Rumi, the Moral Psychologist

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Maulana Jalal-ud-Din Mohammad (1207-1273), popularly known as Rumi, was a Muslim theologian-turned-poet. His poetry, published in two genres of masnavi and ghazal is mainly focused on the idea of love and its relation to the intimacy with God. However, the thoughts of Rumi, expressed through thousands of verses and ghazals, go beyond love and touch upon various aspects of human life and the universe. Even a cursory reading of Rumi’s poetry reveals his wide-ranging and thoughtful expressions on nature, universe, world, anger, lust, justice, purity, etc. According to Ahmed Javed, a contemporary literary critic, Rumi is the best author of human experience in the world. In other words, Rumi best describes the meaning of being a human on planet earth. Alan Williams, professor of Iraninan studies and translator of the works of Rumi, has identified the voice of moral reflection or homily as one of the seven voices while defining the narrative structure of Masnavi, a long poem by Rumi published in 06 volumes. Similar vein of advice and observations on moral psychology can be found in over 3,000 ghazals of Divan or Divan-e- Shams, the collection of ghazals by Rumi. Brittanica, an online encyclopedia, defines moral psychology as “the empirical and conceptual study of moral judgement, motivation and development”. This article details the verses of Rumi, from both Masnavi and Divan, which convey the deep observations of the poet regarding moral psychology. The verses are easily discernible for enduring reliability.


Like other poets, Rumi deploys the tropes of allegory, metaphor, simile, folklore, historical events, personalities, Quranic verses, Hadith etc to make his point. I will present a selection of verses from Rumi’s Masnavi and Divan highlighting the moral psychology therein.


این جہان کوہ است و فعل ما ندا
سوئ ما آید نداہا راصدا
(M I:215)
This world is the mountain, and our action the shout: the echo of the shouts comes (back) to us.

Rumi has explained the recompense for deeds and misdeeds by comparing the whole world to a mountain. Just like the mountain returns the schists by echoing it, the good and bad deeds are accordingly rewarded in this world.
Rumi’s places a lot of emphasis on the importance of thoughts in the life of a human being. He considers that a human being is nothing but a thought itself.


ای برادر تو همان اندیشه ای
ما بقی خود استخوان و ریشه ای
گر گ‌ُل است اندیشه ای تو گُلشنی
ور بوُد خاری تو هیمه گُلخنی
Brother! Your worth is in your thoughts alone; you are blood and flesh apart from that
You are rose, if all your thoughts are selfless
If bitter, you are a thorn that is judged worthless
Brother, your worth is in your thoughts alone
M II, 277-278

The formidable effect of a person’s thoughts are highlighted in the above verses. The precursor of every action is a thought. In a sense Rumi is ahead of René Descartes (1596–1650), French philosopher, by three hundred years who affirmed cogito ergo sum ( think therefore I am!). In other words, the ability to think and perceive constituted the most important element of human existence. At many places in both Masnavi and Divan Rumi elucidates how negative thoughts disempower and depress a human being and how he can rise above those thought processes. In the opening verse of Ghazal 2500 of Divan, Rumi diagnosed that the doom and gloom is always characterised by mean thoughts of a man:


چه افسردی در آن گوشه چرا تو هم نمی‌گردی
مگر تو فکر منحوسی که جز بر غم نمی‌گرد
Why are you depressed and cornered instead of moving ahead?
But then you are an epitome of mean thought and you are obsessed over grief

In numerous verses, Rumi emphasises the layered and unfathomable inner world of a human being, making it all the more important to avoid judging someone through appearances alone. An example:


َمرد را صد سال عم و خال او
یک سر ُمویی نہ ِبیند حال اُو
A man’s paternal and maternal uncles (may see him) for a hundred years, and of his (inward) state not see (so much as) the tip of a hair (M:3, 4249)

Rumi underlines the complexity of human psyche in that it is characterised by an inner world which is rarely apparent. In other words, he implies that our judgements based on the outward appearances or behaviour of a person may well be wrong considering that appearances never represent the human being on the whole.

Regarding worldly gains and glory, Rumi maintains that on the one hand they uplift and increase a person’s standing among the people but conversely they become the reason of the downfall too as succinctly expressed in the verse below:


دشمنِ طاؤس آمد پر اُو
ای بسی شہ را بکشتہ فر اُو
The peacock’s plumage is its enemy: O many the king who hath been slain by his magnificence!
(M1:208)

Rumi is of the view that by reciprocating a bad deed, one becomes equal to the perpetrator of the act. He, therefore, exhorts restraint or better still good behaviour in response to treatment.


گر فراق بندہ از بد بندھگی است
چون تو با بد بندگی پس فرق چیست

Have I deserved my fate for some offence; If you hurt sinners what’s the difference?(M:1,1564)

It can be discerned from the above selection that besides numerous themes in his collection of verses (in Masnavi and Divan) Rumi conveys a message of morality in unmatched eloquence and clarity. Perhaps it is beauty and depth and a sense of wonder in these verses that remain relevant to date and keeps guiding anyone who immerses in the ocean of his wisdom.

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CPEC

Poor Winter Maintenance of KKH Risks CPEC All-Weather Trade

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KKH winter maintenance

The Karakoram Highway (KKH), a vital lifeline for trade between Pakistan and China under the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC), faces critical challenges each winter due to negligent maintenance. Connecting the two nations through the Khunjerab Pass—at over 4,693 meters (15,397 feet) above sea level—this strategic route is central to trade and regional economic integration. The pass connects Gilgit-Baltistan with China’s Xinjiang region and was reopened after closing for almost three years in April 2023. The land border was closed in 2020 after the outbreak of COVID-19. However, when heavy snowfalls hit, KKH becomes treacherous, risking the disruption of trade and the economic ties vital to both countries.


The KKH, a pivotal component of CPEC, facilitates the movement of goods and strengthens economic ties between Pakistan and China. Its year-round functionality is crucial for trade. Yet, the lack of timely snow clearance and road maintenance is disrupting the route, undermining the goals of CPEC.
Despite past agreements aimed at transforming the KKH into an all-weather route, meaningful execution has been lacking. This year, authorities have announced plans to finally implement measures to ensure year-round connectivity. However, the existing state of road maintenance raises doubts about their effectiveness and commitment.


For Aman Ullah, a resident and trader from Gojal, Hunza, the snowbound Karakoram Highway is more than just an inconvenience—it’s a daily struggle that threatens his livelihood. “We are often left stranded for days, with no way to continue our trade,” he shared with The Karakoram.
Aman explained, “A few years ago, the Chinese government donated four state-of-the-art snow-clearing machines to the FWO for winter maintenance of the Khunjerab Border and nearby sections of the KKH. These advanced machines, equipped with computerized systems, were intended to ensure safe travel and uninterrupted trade. However, only one of these machines remains operational today, and even that is reportedly in poor condition. Instead of effectively clearing the snow, it often leaves the road even worse, making travel difficult. The fate of the other three machines remains unknown, raising serious concerns about mismanagement and a lack of accountability.”


The poor state of snow clearing operations has caused a worrying rise in road accidents, Tufail Ahmed, the owner of a transport company whose vehicles frequently travel to China via the KKH, shared his frustrations. Stranded vehicles have become a common sight, with travelers risking their lives in freezing temperatures,” he said.
Abdur Rehman, an import-export trader from Gilgit-Baltistan, highlighted the contrast between the two sides, adding, “In stark contrast, the Chinese side of the Khunjerab Pass ensures the road remains well-maintained and operational during winter. Advanced machinery and a proactive approach demonstrate their commitment to maintaining seamless connectivity. This disparity reflects poorly on Pakistan’s preparedness and raises questions about the efficiency of NHA and FWO.”


Dr. Faqeer Muhammad, Director of the China Study Centre in Gilgit-Baltistan, emphasized the broader implications, stating, “The KKH is more than just a road—it’s a vital trade corridor that plays a key role in China’s Belt and Road Initiative (BRI); it is a symbol of connectivity, trade, and opportunity. Neglecting its maintenance during winter risks undermining Pakistan’s economic and strategic interests, calling for immediate attention from the authorities.” Its maintenance is critical not just for trade but for the broader economic and strategic objectives of CPEC.


This neglect not only puts lives in danger but also hampers trade activities, creating significant bottlenecks for transportation linked to CPEC.
Residents and stakeholders are demanding urgent action to address these issues. Effective utilization of resources, transparent accountability for the missing machinery, and better coordination between authorities are imperative. Maintaining the KKH as a safe and reliable trade route is not just a regional necessity; it is a cornerstone of CPEC and a matter of national importance.

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Gilgit-Baltistan Marks 77th Liberation Day from Dogra Rule

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Gilgit Baltistan Independence

Gilgit-Baltistan enthusiastically celebrated its 77th Liberation Day on November 1st, 2024. A public holiday was declared in all ten districts, and various events were organized to commemorate the occasion.


The main event was held at Yadgar Shuhada Chinar Bagh, where Governor Syed Mehdi Shah, Chief Minister Haji Gulbar Khan, and Commander FCNA Major General Syed Imtiaz Hussain Gilani unfurled the national flag. Provincial ministers, the Chief Secretary, the IG Police, and other senior officials also attended the ceremony. Floral tributes were paid to the martyrs, and the armed forces of the GB Police presented a salute.
Governor Syed Mehdi Shah emphasized the sacrifices made by the Gilgit-Baltistan Scouts, the region’s forefathers to liberate it from Dogra rule. He also acknowledged the sacrifices of the martyrs and reaffirmed the commitment to national security.


A special Independence Day ceremony was organized at the Army Helipad, where high-ranking civil and military officials participated. For the first time in Gilgit-Baltistan’s history, the 77th Independence Day Parade was telecast live on national channels, including Gilgit-Baltistan PTV. Many people viewed the parade live at Wahab Shaheed Ground and Lalak Jan Shaheed Ground.

Commander 10 Corps Lieutenant General Shahid Imtiaz highlighted the significance of Gilgit-Baltistan’s freedom, achieved through the courage and sacrifice of its people. He emphasized the region’s enduring loyalty to Pakistan.


Chief Minister Haji Gulbar Khan paid tribute to the region’s martyrs and expressed pride in the people of Gilgit-Baltistan. He also acknowledged the pivotal role played by the Gilgit-Baltistan Scouts, a force with a rich history dating back to the British Raj. Their courage and sacrifice were instrumental in securing the region’s freedom from Dogra rule. Alongside the local populace, the Scouts fought valiantly against the Dogra forces and ultimately achieved victory.


The Independence Day Parade featured troops from the NLI Center, GB Scouts, Women Police, GB Police, Punjab Rangers, Cadet College Skardu, and Cadet College Chilas. The celebrations also included paragliding performances and cultural programs, featuring national and regional patriotic songs as well as local dances.


Similar celebrations were held in all districts of Gilgit-Baltistan, with cultural programs, flag hoisting ceremonies, and tributes to martyrs. The Pakistan Army played a significant role in organizing these events and broadcasting special programs.


As Gilgit-Baltistan commemorates its 77th Liberation Day, it reaffirms its commitment to national unity and prosperity. The region’s rich history, diverse culture, and stunning natural beauty continue to attract visitors from around the world. With its strategic location and abundant resources, Gilgit-Baltistan is poised to play a vital role in Pakistan’s development and progress.

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