Arts, Culture & Heritage

Lion Fort Kharpocho – An Ode to the History

Published

2 years ago

March 20, 2023

Without exception, nations make thier mark on other nations because of their folklores. These folklores include artifacts, music, norms, and several kinds of art. Among the list of folklores, architecture has paramount importance above and beyond measures making a history of nations. Baltistan, the land of antiquities is accounted for the utmost extent in the list of architecture. Baltistan’s 16th century Muslim Scholars speak of the region as the “Great Palolo”; the territory that contains a bulk of historical forts and buildings. Different nations had invaded this region with the slogan ‘first come first served’ and ruled this region. During their regime, they constructed forts to protect themselves from the invaders. Among such historical forts in Baltistan, the fort of “Kharpocho” holds an important position in antiquities just not because of the title, but because many rulers lived their life in this fort. Above all, this fort is called the king of forts because of its architecture, complex routes, and amazing wonders. It is also called the “Lion fort” because there was a roaring lion’s head on the outer gate of Kharpocho, which terrified the enemy. Underground tunnels were constructed for escape. According to historians, the Kharpocho fort dates back to 1,200 years old and consists of seven to eight floors, standing majestically on a rocky hilltop at the foot of the “Sange Chho” (Indus River). This is a feature of the fort from where the entire city of Skardu could be easily monitored from the three security rooms. Likewise, it also had special rooms for the king and the royal companions as well as separate rooms for soldiers, prisons, and criminals. According to narration, this fort was built with the help of giants which is all moonshine. This fort was known in its time as an impermeable fortress. History exemplifies that this lion fort, constructed in 1190, was the capital of the whole of Gilgit-Baltistan.

The Rajas who ruled in this fort include Ibrahim Maqpoon, Astak Sange, Sik Sange, Baruq Sange, and Ghouta Cho. These rajas were considered Muslim rulers around 1300 AD. Later, in 1400 AD, the kings who ruled included “Braq Maqpoon Bokha”, Ali Sher Khan Anchan in 1500 AD, Raja Ahmed Khan in 1600, Raja Dolat Naseer in 1700 AD, and the last King was Ahmed Shah Maqpoon in 1800 AD. Maqpoon Raja Ali Sher Khan Anchan had conquered Kashmir to Chitral due to his expedition and earned the title of “Anchan” which means the symbol of bravery. Moreover, there used to be a garden in front of this palace called the “Hilal Bagh” which means the moon garden. Princess Mendoq Regalimo had a “Gangopi” canal built to supply water to this garden. The amazing water canal Gangopi at the foot of the fort is also a crucial part of the history of Kharpocho. There used to be four orchards around Kharpocho in which all kinds of fruits were always available. The ponds and fountains were beautifully made inside Kharpocho and water was brought to these pools by mules and horses from the mighty Indus River. However, due to the treachery of spies and betrayal of the local members of the fort, it has been attacked several times. Minister Adul Khan and Minister Cha Khatt betrayed the people and the fort was captured by the Hindus till 1948.

History says that in this fort diplomatic relations were established with the Iranian Safavid kings and marital affairs were arranged with the Mughal kings. Fosco Maraini, an Italian photographer, anthropologist, ethnologist, and writer, says that everything in Skardu was put down to the credit of Ali Sher Khan.

Fosco Maraini describes the fort as, “This ancient pile is perched like a veritable eerie on the rock of tawny hue rising sheer and to the immense height from the Indus. Its site in fact is a massive promontory of rock, 1300 feet in height, washed by the river at its foot. It is almost an island amid the plain, and its choice as a perch for a fortress by the early inhabitants of the valley is not a very puzzling one. Even today its battle-minted flanks touch one of the promontory’s lesser peaks with the romance of the age of chivalry. The place enjoys the reputation of impregnability and even in recent times, in the course of the disorders which followed the India-Pakistan partition in 1947, the people of Skardu flocked to it for safety. This fort is the symbol of the devoted people of Ati Balti (local people of Baltistan), Yol’s blood love, and excellent culture. According to historians, the fort was a seven-story structure made of huge stone, antique carved timber frameworks, and clay. The Dogra’s’ arrival in 1840 and persecution made up for the shortfall, and the fort was held by the Dogra’s for several months before being seized by a plot. The fort was the scene of a bitter struggle, a river of blood was spilled, and mankind continued to tremble as the animals proceeded to shed human blood and laugh with all their passions. Blood was splattered across the ground. The vast building, which had taken years to construct, was set on fire, and the flames rising from the fire began to communicate with the sky. The Dogra warriors used the fort for 108 years and reconstructed it to their specifications. In 1948, the local people’s spirit of freedom poured through their veins like blood, therefore they battled unarmed against forces equipped with powerful and sophisticated weapons, forcing them to retreat. The fort still stands today as a testament to Baltistan’s glory.

The beautiful Gilgit-Baltistan Valley is home to an exquisite and unique historical legacy. In terms of culture, language, history, and geography, these lands are unlike any other in the world. This land, rich in natural wonders, is also a living testament to such a long history.

Culture and Heritage generate tangible representations of value systems, beliefs, customs, and lifestyles as part of human activity. It is the responsibility of both the people and the government to beautify this valley and take the necessary steps to protect the culture, heritage, and values.

About Author

Syed Zejah Kazmi

The writer is a student of International Relations at Karakoram International University.

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Arts, Culture & Heritage

Rumi, the Moral Psychologist

Published

1 month ago

January 14, 2025

Zameer Abbas

Maulana Jalal-ud-Din Mohammad (1207-1273), popularly known as Rumi, was a Muslim theologian-turned-poet. His poetry, published in two genres of masnavi and ghazal is mainly focused on the idea of love and its relation to the intimacy with God. However, the thoughts of Rumi, expressed through thousands of verses and ghazals, go beyond love and touch upon various aspects of human life and the universe. Even a cursory reading of Rumi’s poetry reveals his wide-ranging and thoughtful expressions on nature, universe, world, anger, lust, justice, purity, etc. According to Ahmed Javed, a contemporary literary critic, Rumi is the best author of human experience in the world. In other words, Rumi best describes the meaning of being a human on planet earth. Alan Williams, professor of Iraninan studies and translator of the works of Rumi, has identified the voice of moral reflection or homily as one of the seven voices while defining the narrative structure of Masnavi, a long poem by Rumi published in 06 volumes. Similar vein of advice and observations on moral psychology can be found in over 3,000 ghazals of Divan or Divan-e- Shams, the collection of ghazals by Rumi. Brittanica, an online encyclopedia, defines moral psychology as “the empirical and conceptual study of moral judgement, motivation and development”. This article details the verses of Rumi, from both Masnavi and Divan, which convey the deep observations of the poet regarding moral psychology. The verses are easily discernible for enduring reliability.

Like other poets, Rumi deploys the tropes of allegory, metaphor, simile, folklore, historical events, personalities, Quranic verses, Hadith etc to make his point. I will present a selection of verses from Rumi’s Masnavi and Divan highlighting the moral psychology therein.

این جہان کوہ است و فعل ما ندا
سوئ ما آید نداہا راصدا
(M I:215)
This world is the mountain, and our action the shout: the echo of the shouts comes (back) to us.

Rumi has explained the recompense for deeds and misdeeds by comparing the whole world to a mountain. Just like the mountain returns the schists by echoing it, the good and bad deeds are accordingly rewarded in this world.
Rumi’s places a lot of emphasis on the importance of thoughts in the life of a human being. He considers that a human being is nothing but a thought itself.

ای برادر تو همان اندیشه ای
ما بقی خود استخوان و ریشه ای
گر گ‌ُل است اندیشه ای تو گُلشنی
ور بوُد خاری تو هیمه گُلخنی
Brother! Your worth is in your thoughts alone; you are blood and flesh apart from that
You are rose, if all your thoughts are selfless
If bitter, you are a thorn that is judged worthless
Brother, your worth is in your thoughts alone
M II, 277-278

The formidable effect of a person’s thoughts are highlighted in the above verses. The precursor of every action is a thought. In a sense Rumi is ahead of René Descartes (1596–1650), French philosopher, by three hundred years who affirmed cogito ergo sum ( think therefore I am!). In other words, the ability to think and perceive constituted the most important element of human existence. At many places in both Masnavi and Divan Rumi elucidates how negative thoughts disempower and depress a human being and how he can rise above those thought processes. In the opening verse of Ghazal 2500 of Divan, Rumi diagnosed that the doom and gloom is always characterised by mean thoughts of a man:

چه افسردی در آن گوشه چرا تو هم نمی‌گردی
مگر تو فکر منحوسی که جز بر غم نمی‌گرد
Why are you depressed and cornered instead of moving ahead?
But then you are an epitome of mean thought and you are obsessed over grief

In numerous verses, Rumi emphasises the layered and unfathomable inner world of a human being, making it all the more important to avoid judging someone through appearances alone. An example:

َمرد را صد سال عم و خال او
یک سر ُمویی نہ ِبیند حال اُو
A man’s paternal and maternal uncles (may see him) for a hundred years, and of his (inward) state not see (so much as) the tip of a hair (M:3, 4249)

Rumi underlines the complexity of human psyche in that it is characterised by an inner world which is rarely apparent. In other words, he implies that our judgements based on the outward appearances or behaviour of a person may well be wrong considering that appearances never represent the human being on the whole.

Regarding worldly gains and glory, Rumi maintains that on the one hand they uplift and increase a person’s standing among the people but conversely they become the reason of the downfall too as succinctly expressed in the verse below:

دشمنِ طاؤس آمد پر اُو
ای بسی شہ را بکشتہ فر اُو
The peacock’s plumage is its enemy: O many the king who hath been slain by his magnificence!
(M1:208)

Rumi is of the view that by reciprocating a bad deed, one becomes equal to the perpetrator of the act. He, therefore, exhorts restraint or better still good behaviour in response to treatment.

گر فراق بندہ از بد بندھگی است
چون تو با بد بندگی پس فرق چیست

Have I deserved my fate for some offence; If you hurt sinners what’s the difference?(M:1,1564)

It can be discerned from the above selection that besides numerous themes in his collection of verses (in Masnavi and Divan) Rumi conveys a message of morality in unmatched eloquence and clarity. Perhaps it is beauty and depth and a sense of wonder in these verses that remain relevant to date and keeps guiding anyone who immerses in the ocean of his wisdom.

About Author

Zameer Abbas

The author is an alumnus of the Institute of Development Studies, UK. He is currently associated with the government of Gilgit-Baltistan and tweets at @zameer_abbas21.

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Arts, Culture & Heritage

Exploring Baltit Fort: A Jewel of Hunza Valley

Published

4 months ago

October 10, 2024

Zeeshan Alam

Nestled in the heart of Pakistan’s breathtaking Hunza Valley, Baltit Fort is a testament to the region’s rich history and cultural heritage. This stunning fort, with its majestic wooden architecture and panoramic views, offers visitors a unique glimpse into the past while providing a gateway to the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape.

A Glimpse into History

Baltit Fort dates back over 700 years, originally built as a defensive structure to protect the local population. It was the residence of the ruling Mirs of Hunza until the mid-20th century. The fort’s design showcases a blend of Tibetan and Central Asian influences, reflecting the diverse cultural tapestry of the region. In 1993, it underwent extensive restoration, making it a significant site for history enthusiasts and casual visitors.

Architectural Marvel

As you approach the fort, you’ll be captivated by its distinctive architecture. The intricate wooden balconies, colorful frescoes, and robust stone walls create a striking visual appeal. The fort is built on a hillside, which adds to its charm and offers stunning views of the surrounding peaks, valleys, and the picturesque Hunza River.

A Journey Through Time

Once inside, you can explore various rooms and halls that were once occupied by the ruling family. The museum within the fort showcases artifacts, traditional clothing, and tools used by the locals, providing a deeper understanding of the region’s heritage. Each room tells a story, making your visit a journey through time.

Breathtaking Views

One of the highlights of visiting Baltit Fort is the breathtaking panoramic views it offers. The fort overlooks the vibrant landscapes of Hunza Valley, with terraced fields, orchards, and the majestic Rakaposhi and Ultar Sar mountains in the background. Be sure to bring your camera; the vistas are simply unforgettable.

Cultural Significance

Baltit Fort is not just a historical site; it is a cultural hub for the community. Throughout the year, various cultural events and festivals are held here, showcasing local music, dance, and art. Engaging with the local people and participating in these events can enrich your experience and provide insight into the traditions of the Hunza Valley.

Tips for Visiting

Best Time to Visit: The ideal time to explore Baltit Fort is from April to October, when the weather is pleasant, and the landscape is lush and vibrant.
Getting There: The fort is easily accessible from Karimabad, the main town in Hunza. You can either hike up the hill or take a short drive.
Guided Tours: Consider hiring a local guide who can provide in-depth knowledge about the fort’s history and significance.

Conclusion

Baltit Fort is more than just an ancient structure; it is a symbol of the enduring spirit of the Hunza Valley. Its historical significance, architectural beauty, and stunning natural surroundings make it a must-visit destination for travelers exploring Pakistan. Whether you’re a history buff, a photography enthusiast, or simply seeking to connect with nature, a visit to Baltit Fort will leave you with lasting memories and a deeper appreciation for this enchanting region. So pack your bags and embark on a journey to this extraordinary fort—you won’t be disappointed!

About Author

Zeeshan Alam

The writer is a co-founder of Grey Matter Ventures. He works as an account manager, helping to build strong client relationships. In his free time, he enjoys freelance work and graphic design. He is also passionate about social work and spends time helping his community.

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Arts, Culture & Heritage

Altit Fort Hunza: A Must-Visit Destination in Pakistan

Published

4 months ago

October 7, 2024

Zeeshan Alam

Altit Fort Hunza is a hidden gem in the heart of the Hunza Valley, Pakistan. This ancient fortress, dating back to the 11th century, offers a captivating blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty.

This is an ancient fort in the Altit town in the Hunza valley in Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan. It was originally home to the hereditary rulers of the Hunza state who carried the title of ‘Mir‘, although they moved to the somewhat younger Baltit fort nearby three centuries later. The Fort and in particular the Shikari tower is around 1100 years old, which makes it the oldest monument in the Gilgit–Baltistan. The fort has received the UNESCO Asia Pacific Heritage Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation in 2011.

Why visit Altit Fort Hunza?

Historical Significance: As one of the oldest surviving monuments in the Hunza Valley, Altit Fort provides a glimpse into the region’s rich past.
Architectural Marvel: The fort’s intricate woodwork, carved balconies, and beautiful murals are a testament to the craftsmanship of its builders.
Panoramic Views: Perched on a hilltop, Altit Fort offers breathtaking vistas of the Hunza Valley and surrounding mountains.
Cultural Experience: The fort serves as a museum, showcasing artifacts and traditions of the Hunza people.
UNESCO World Heritage Site: Its recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site highlights its cultural and historical importance.

Tips for Visiting:

Best Time to Visit: Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) offer the most pleasant weather for visiting.

How to Get There: You can reach Altit Fort by trekking from Karimabad or hiring a taxi.

Entrance Fee: There is a small entrance fee to enter the fort.

Things to Do: Explore the fort’s chambers, visit the museum, and enjoy the panoramic views.

Don’t Forget: Bring a camera to capture the stunning scenery and architecture.

Here are some additional photos:

This fort is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Pakistan. Its historical significance, architectural beauty, and cultural richness make it a truly unforgettable experience.