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Kargah Buddha: Relics of Buddhism or Yatchini?

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A gateway for traders from India, China, and Central Asia during the ancient Silk Routes, Edward Frederick Knight rightly titled his fascinating travelogue “Where Three Empires Meet” referring to the geostrategic importance of this place. A place with more than 50 peaks higher than 7,000 metres, the world’s three longest glaciers, the Baura, Baltoro, and Biafo, as well as a meeting point for the three mightiest mountain ranges in the world—the Karakoram, the Himalaya, and the Hindu Kush. A place with a vast range of habitats and abundant flora and fauna that is home to many different types of animals, including the Ibex, the Markhor, the Snow Leopard, and many other animals. A region that has produced brave people who have made world records with their resilience and heroism like Nazir Sabir, Ali Sadpara, Samina Baig, and Ahsraf Aman. As John Biddulph mentioned in his book ‘Tribes of the Hindoo Koosh’ in the times of immemorial this place was called Sargin, with time another name Gilit became popular among the ancient dwellers of this region. It is pertinent to mention that the Sikh and Dogra vanquishers coined a new name Gilgit by altering the existing name Gilit. Interestingly, the name Sargin-Gilit or Gilit is still popular among the dwellers. He further accentuated the existence of primitive structures in the region of Gilgit-Baltistan.

However, this place is known for its vibrant lakes, snow-clad mountains, green-carpeted valleys, and cascading waterfalls, even the inhabitants have a modicum of knowledge about the rich historical and archaeological splendour. Owing to the significance of history Robert Heinlein stated that “A generation which ignores history has no past and no future”. Given that let’s explore one of the most fascinating historical sites of GB named Kargah Buddha, a statue of Buddha carved on a mountain which is approximately 150 feet from the ground and 9 Kilometres (Km) away from the main city of Gilgit. It is posited that the statue of Buddha has been carved during the 4th century AD. Nonetheless, archaeologists discovered and excavated karagah Buddha during 1938-39. The sculpture of Buddha vividly depicts the message of peace, Buddha’s hand on his chest symbolises harmony, goodwill, and tranquillity. Archaeologists discovered three stupas and a Buddhist monastery which entails Sanskrit manuscripts and chronicles. As per the findings of John Biddulph, Buddhism spread in this region more or less 300 years after the nirvana of Buddha or around about 150BC. Buddhism originated from Hinduism and spread across the world. Historical records have revealed that in the year 563 BC a son was born to suddhodana who was given the name Siddhartha. Over the years Siddhartha turned the page of history and became Gautama the Buddha. A young, ambitious ruler of the Mauryan Empire Ashoka adopted Buddhism as his religion and proclaimed Buddhism as the official religion of the Subcontinent. Several Stupas and monasteries were erected during the reign of Ashoka, meanwhile, carvings on the colossal rocks also became popular. It was the period of influence of Ashoka when the route between Kashmir and Gilgit opened.

Eventually, the region of Gilgit became the religious hub of Buddhism. It was the Silk Route which played a crucial role in spreading Buddhism from India to China, at that time China was ruled by emperor Ming-Ti, and under the command of the emperor, several envoys were sent for garnering information regarding the origin of Buddhism. In the same vein, several pilgrims and Buddhist monks made their way toward India via the Silk Route for gleaning information from historical annals, chronicles, holy sites, and scriptures of ancient Buddhism. Some studies have demonstrated that pilgrims who were in the search of early sources of Buddhism journeyed through Karakoram and Pamir passes to reach Gandhara. This place is the second holiest place for the followers of Buddhism. Adding on, an erudite archaeologist Sir Aurel Stein highlighted the significance of conducting in-depth research on the ancient roots of the region, he voyaged through unspoiled lush green valleys of Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan whilst his odyssey to Central Asia and China. In the reports of his four voyages, he pinpointed famous ancient sites. He jotted down infinitesimal details about his travel and expedition in the areas of Gilgit, his list encompasses ancient sites such as Kargah Buddha which locates in Gilgit, Stupas in Naupur, Taj Moghul knoll in Jutial, ruined hummocks in Gilgit, and around 20-feet high Stupa in Nagar. It is worth mentioning that he discovered ancient trinkets, engravings, and inscriptions while voyaging through the enthralling parishes of Yasin valley. In the year 1931, he discovered ancient manuscripts in Naupur near the main city of Gilgit. These ancient sites attract a number of Buddhists from diverse parts of the world like Korea and Japan. Particularly, Kargah Buddha has got much credence and attention from the admirers of Buddhism. On the flip side, there is a legend of Yatchini which is emblazoned on the board at the entrance of the Kargah Budhha site, in the olden days, there lived a fiend woman named the Yatchini, she was accustomed to devouring men who vamoosed to fetch wood, if two men set off for fetching wood she spares one man’s life while the other man becomes her meal. Bit by bit, she devoured nearly all the dwellers of the countryside. To save the lives of other men the inhabitants from surrounding areas put forth apt solutions to kill the ogress. They all agreed to seek help from Daiyal Khimito to bind Yatchini. On the request of the dwellers Daiyal Khimito bound the ogress, he told them to entomb him at the foothills of the rock where the ogress was bound.

A few decades ago, it was a common practice among women to articulate this folklore to their kids as a lullaby when the kids refuse to sleep. I was taken aback by harkening to this horrible folktale from the natives. To give another specimen of the Yatchini folklore, DLR Lorimer, a former political agent of the British who was stationed in Gilgit between 1920 AD and 1924, gleaned the oral traditions and penned the Yatchini narrative in his renowned book “Gilgit, Chitral, and Yasin.” Though it is quite intricate to agree upon this mythology, viewpoints vary from person-to-person. Folklore is an integral part of portraying historical events that are not recorded in historical annals and traditional stories should be passed down from generation to generation to comprehend history from varied perspectives. Moving forward, as per the stats of the Tourism Department of Gilgit-Baltistan released during 2018-19, marginally over half a million tourists visited Gilgit to travel around Kargah Buddha. The tourism industry significantly contributes to the economy of Gilgit-Baltistan, according to a ballpark estimate nearly around 50% of tourists visit Pakistan to see sighting Gilgit-Baltistan.

Given that, the significance of ancient sites and picturesque places cannot be undermined. Especially, historical sites such as Kargah Buddha needs special attention from the local government particularly, the archaeological department of Gilgit-Baltistan should have to take corrective measures for the restoration and preservation of the aforementioned valuable historical site. The statue of Buddha needs to remain unspoiled and unblemished so that future generations can see the relics of Buddha. To take some palpable actions for the preservation of this archaeological site is the need of the hour; it should be made accessible for residents and tourists. One of the major pitfalls is the security and protection of holy sites of minorities, stringent laws should be enacted to mitigate the security risk for minorities and their sacred places. The site should be repaired and made accessible for both local and foreign tourists by the local administration and community members working together. If not the site seems to disappear into oblivion.

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Rumi, the Moral Psychologist

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Maulana Jalal-ud-Din Mohammad (1207-1273), popularly known as Rumi, was a Muslim theologian-turned-poet. His poetry, published in two genres of masnavi and ghazal is mainly focused on the idea of love and its relation to the intimacy with God. However, the thoughts of Rumi, expressed through thousands of verses and ghazals, go beyond love and touch upon various aspects of human life and the universe. Even a cursory reading of Rumi’s poetry reveals his wide-ranging and thoughtful expressions on nature, universe, world, anger, lust, justice, purity, etc. According to Ahmed Javed, a contemporary literary critic, Rumi is the best author of human experience in the world. In other words, Rumi best describes the meaning of being a human on planet earth. Alan Williams, professor of Iraninan studies and translator of the works of Rumi, has identified the voice of moral reflection or homily as one of the seven voices while defining the narrative structure of Masnavi, a long poem by Rumi published in 06 volumes. Similar vein of advice and observations on moral psychology can be found in over 3,000 ghazals of Divan or Divan-e- Shams, the collection of ghazals by Rumi. Brittanica, an online encyclopedia, defines moral psychology as “the empirical and conceptual study of moral judgement, motivation and development”. This article details the verses of Rumi, from both Masnavi and Divan, which convey the deep observations of the poet regarding moral psychology. The verses are easily discernible for enduring reliability.


Like other poets, Rumi deploys the tropes of allegory, metaphor, simile, folklore, historical events, personalities, Quranic verses, Hadith etc to make his point. I will present a selection of verses from Rumi’s Masnavi and Divan highlighting the moral psychology therein.


این جہان کوہ است و فعل ما ندا
سوئ ما آید نداہا راصدا
(M I:215)
This world is the mountain, and our action the shout: the echo of the shouts comes (back) to us.

Rumi has explained the recompense for deeds and misdeeds by comparing the whole world to a mountain. Just like the mountain returns the schists by echoing it, the good and bad deeds are accordingly rewarded in this world.
Rumi’s places a lot of emphasis on the importance of thoughts in the life of a human being. He considers that a human being is nothing but a thought itself.


ای برادر تو همان اندیشه ای
ما بقی خود استخوان و ریشه ای
گر گ‌ُل است اندیشه ای تو گُلشنی
ور بوُد خاری تو هیمه گُلخنی
Brother! Your worth is in your thoughts alone; you are blood and flesh apart from that
You are rose, if all your thoughts are selfless
If bitter, you are a thorn that is judged worthless
Brother, your worth is in your thoughts alone
M II, 277-278

The formidable effect of a person’s thoughts are highlighted in the above verses. The precursor of every action is a thought. In a sense Rumi is ahead of René Descartes (1596–1650), French philosopher, by three hundred years who affirmed cogito ergo sum ( think therefore I am!). In other words, the ability to think and perceive constituted the most important element of human existence. At many places in both Masnavi and Divan Rumi elucidates how negative thoughts disempower and depress a human being and how he can rise above those thought processes. In the opening verse of Ghazal 2500 of Divan, Rumi diagnosed that the doom and gloom is always characterised by mean thoughts of a man:


چه افسردی در آن گوشه چرا تو هم نمی‌گردی
مگر تو فکر منحوسی که جز بر غم نمی‌گرد
Why are you depressed and cornered instead of moving ahead?
But then you are an epitome of mean thought and you are obsessed over grief

In numerous verses, Rumi emphasises the layered and unfathomable inner world of a human being, making it all the more important to avoid judging someone through appearances alone. An example:


َمرد را صد سال عم و خال او
یک سر ُمویی نہ ِبیند حال اُو
A man’s paternal and maternal uncles (may see him) for a hundred years, and of his (inward) state not see (so much as) the tip of a hair (M:3, 4249)

Rumi underlines the complexity of human psyche in that it is characterised by an inner world which is rarely apparent. In other words, he implies that our judgements based on the outward appearances or behaviour of a person may well be wrong considering that appearances never represent the human being on the whole.

Regarding worldly gains and glory, Rumi maintains that on the one hand they uplift and increase a person’s standing among the people but conversely they become the reason of the downfall too as succinctly expressed in the verse below:


دشمنِ طاؤس آمد پر اُو
ای بسی شہ را بکشتہ فر اُو
The peacock’s plumage is its enemy: O many the king who hath been slain by his magnificence!
(M1:208)

Rumi is of the view that by reciprocating a bad deed, one becomes equal to the perpetrator of the act. He, therefore, exhorts restraint or better still good behaviour in response to treatment.


گر فراق بندہ از بد بندھگی است
چون تو با بد بندگی پس فرق چیست

Have I deserved my fate for some offence; If you hurt sinners what’s the difference?(M:1,1564)

It can be discerned from the above selection that besides numerous themes in his collection of verses (in Masnavi and Divan) Rumi conveys a message of morality in unmatched eloquence and clarity. Perhaps it is beauty and depth and a sense of wonder in these verses that remain relevant to date and keeps guiding anyone who immerses in the ocean of his wisdom.

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Pakistan Army Launches Rescue Operation, Missing Passengers in Deosai Found Safe

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Pakistan Army Launches Rescue Operation, Missing Passengers in Deosai

In a heartening development, the Pakistan Army successfully located 14 passengers who had gone missing in the snow-covered Deosai region while traveling from Gultari to Skardu. Heavy snowfall had severed their land connection, leaving them stranded in one of the country’s most treacherous terrains.
The individuals, reported missing yesterday, were found taking shelter in an area known as Safaid Pani. A search team dispatched from Gultari located the group, confirming their safety. Deputy Commissioner Arif Ahmed while talking to The Nation, said “All individuals are safe and in good health.” The Deputy Commissioner commended the swift response of the rescue teams in overcoming extreme weather conditions to ensure the passengers’ safety.
The ordeal began when the passengers failed to arrive at their destination, prompting relatives and locals to appeal to the Pakistan Army for immediate assistance. The Army launched a coordinated air and ground rescue operation, deploying helicopters and a team of soldiers on foot. While adverse weather conditions hindered aerial efforts, the determination of the ground team proved pivotal in tracing the missing individuals.
The passengers had taken refuge at Safaid Pani, enduring freezing temperatures and challenging conditions. Rescue teams provided them with food, medical care, and warmth before preparing to transport them to safety.
“This incident underscores the dangers of traveling through high-altitude regions like Deosai during winter. Travelers must exercise caution and ensure adequate preparation,” remarked Deputy Commissioner Ahmed.
Locals have expressed immense gratitude to the Pakistan Army and district administration for their timely intervention. “Their relentless efforts saved lives under extremely harsh conditions,” said a Skardu resident.
The successful rescue of the passengers highlights the dedication and skill of the rescue teams while drawing attention to the unpredictable and often unforgiving nature of Gilgit-Baltistan’s mountainous terrain. Authorities continue to emphasize the importance of weather awareness and safety measures for those traversing remote areas.
This rescue operation serves as a testament to the coordinated efforts of local authorities and the Pakistan Army in ensuring public safety, even under the most challenging circumstances.

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PM Shehbaz Sharif Visits Gilgit-Baltistan, Honors Martyrs, and Launches Development Projects

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PM visits GB

Prime Minister Muhammad Shehbaz Sharif embarked on a one-day official visit to Gilgit-Baltistan, where he was warmly welcomed upon arrival by children dressed in traditional attire, presenting him with bouquets of flowers.
During the welcoming ceremony, Chief Minister Gulbar Khan presented the Prime Minister with a traditional Chugha and cap.
A key highlight of the visit was the Prime Minister’s stop at the Martyrs’ Memorial, where he paid homage to the sacrifices of Gilgit-Baltistan’s heroes who liberated the region from Dogra rule in 1947. He laid a wreath at the memorial and stated, “The sacrifices of the brave soldiers of the Gilgit-Baltistan Scouts in the 1947 Liberation War against Dogra rule, along with their continued efforts to maintain peace and protect lives and property in the region, will never be forgotten. The Federal Government remains committed to the development, prosperity, and well-being of the people of Gilgit-Baltistan.”
Separate meetings were held with Governor Syed Mehdi Shah and Chief Minister Gulbar Khan. They expressed their gratitude to the Prime Minister for initiating and inaugurating various development projects in the region and assured him that these projects would be expedited to benefit the people of Gilgit-Baltistan.


Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif also inaugurated a model village to provide housing for the people of Bubar Village in Gilgit’s Ghizer district, who had lost their homes due to the 2022 floods. The model village, covering 110 kanals, includes homes with two bedrooms each, as well as water supply, solar power, and road connectivity. The Prime Minister, after distributing allotment certificates, directed authorities to immediately build a school, dispensary, and playground for the village. He specified that the dispensary should be equipped with first aid, ultrasound, X-ray, and maternity care facilities.

He further called for third-party validation of the project to address potential shortcomings and suggested adding chimneys to the houses to prevent incidents during winter.
In addition to the model village, the Prime Minister inaugurated several major infrastructure initiatives, including the Naltar Expressway, the Greater Water Supply Project in Hunza, and a 54 MW hydropower plant at Attabad Lake, as well as the Harpo hydropower project.
Speaking to the media in Gilgit, former Chief Minister Hafeez-ur-Rehman mentioned that Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif has committed to a 100 MW solar power project for Gilgit-Baltistan. The Prime Minister also pledged an endowment fund of Rs. 1 billion for talented students at Karakoram International University (KIU) and Baltistan University, aiming to support needy students. Additionally, he assured judicial reforms and other initiatives to accelerate development in the region, along with a third-party audit for the Ghizer-Shandur Expressway project.


Special Assistant to the Chief Minister, Eiman Shah, provided further details, mentioning that a committee would be formed to deliberate on the constitutional rights for Gilgit-Baltistan. He emphasized that the Prime Minister’s visit marks a renewed focus on the region’s development, with an aim to improve quality of life and strengthen the region’s integration with the rest of Pakistan.

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